A well-built well is remarkably low-maintenance. Most of the time you just turn on the faucet and water comes out — no different from being on city water. But wells are mechanical systems with moving parts, and things can go wrong. The good news is that most well problems have straightforward fixes once you know what you're dealing with.
Here are the issues we see most often from homeowners across Lincoln, Stevens, and Spokane counties — and what to do about each one.
Low Water Pressure
You turn on the shower and it's more of a trickle than a stream. Or the kitchen faucet doesn't have the force it used to. Low pressure is probably the most common complaint we hear, and it can have several causes:
- Pressure tank problems — Your pressure tank maintains steady pressure between pump cycles. If the air bladder inside fails or loses its charge, pressure drops. This is the most common culprit and it's usually an easy fix — sometimes just re-pressurizing the bladder, sometimes replacing the tank.
- Clogged pipes or fixtures — Eastern Washington water can be mineral-heavy. Over time, scale builds up inside pipes and faucet aerators. If the low pressure is only at certain fixtures, this is likely the issue. Clean or replace the aerators first.
- Pump wearing out — Submersible pumps last 10–25 years. As they age, they gradually lose output. If your pressure has been slowly declining over months or years, the pump may be nearing the end of its life.
- Dropping water table — Less common, but prolonged dry spells in Eastern Washington can lower water tables temporarily, especially in shallower wells. If your well was drilled on the shallow side, you might notice reduced flow during late summer.
What to do: Check the pressure gauge on your tank first. If it's reading below 20 PSI, start there. If everything looks normal at the tank but pressure is still low, call a well professional to check the pump and water level.
Strange Taste or Smell
If your water suddenly tastes or smells off, pay attention — it's telling you something. Here are the most common offenders in our area:
- Rotten egg smell (sulfur) — This is hydrogen sulfide gas, and it's not unusual in parts of Eastern Washington. It's generally not dangerous at low levels, but it's unpleasant. An activated carbon filter or an aeration system usually takes care of it.
- Metallic or iron taste — Some aquifers in our region have elevated iron content. You might also notice orange or rust-colored staining in sinks and toilets. An iron filter solves this.
- Earthy or musty taste — This can indicate sediment or organic material in the well. It might mean the well needs to be flushed and cleaned, or that the well cap isn't sealing properly and surface water is getting in.
- Chemical taste — This shouldn't happen with well water. If you taste something chemical, get your water tested immediately. It could indicate contamination from a nearby source.
What to do: Any sudden change in taste or smell warrants a water quality test. Annual testing is recommended anyway, but a noticeable change means test now, don't wait.
Cloudy or Discolored Water
Water that comes out milky, cloudy, or with a yellowish-brown tint usually means one of two things: air bubbles (harmless — let a glass sit for a minute and see if it clears) or sediment and minerals being pulled into the well.
If it doesn't clear up, the well may need to be flushed and cleaned — a process where a professional runs water through the well at high volume to clear out accumulated sediment. This is especially common after the well hasn't been used for a while, or after nearby construction that disturbed the ground.
Persistent discoloration can also mean the well screen or casing has been compromised, allowing sediment in. That's a more serious repair, but it's fixable.
Pump Short Cycling
You hear the pump kick on, run for a few seconds, shut off, then kick on again — over and over. This is called short cycling, and it's hard on the pump. Left unchecked, it'll burn out the motor prematurely.
The usual cause is a waterlogged pressure tank. Here's what's happening: inside your pressure tank is a rubber bladder filled with air. The air compresses when the tank fills with water, maintaining pressure. When that bladder fails, the tank fills completely with water and there's no air cushion. The pump has to kick on every time you open a faucet because there's no stored pressure.
The other common cause is a faulty pressure switch — the device that tells the pump when to turn on and off. If the contacts are worn or the settings have drifted, it can cause rapid cycling.
What to do: Check the air pressure on the tank with a tire gauge (should be about 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure). If the tank is waterlogged, it needs replacement. Pressure switches are inexpensive and straightforward to replace.
No Water at All
This is the one that causes the most panic — you turn on the faucet and nothing happens. Before you assume the worst, check these things:
- Power to the pump — Check the breaker. In Eastern Washington winters, ice storms can trip breakers or damage electrical connections. This is the simplest fix and the most common cause.
- Pressure switch — Sometimes the contacts get stuck or corroded. You can sometimes hear a faint hum at the pressure switch if it's trying to engage but failing.
- Frozen pipes — If it's January and you're in a cold snap, exposed pipes between the well and the house could be frozen. This is why the pitless adapter is installed below the frost line — but the pipe run to the house can freeze if it wasn't buried deep enough or if insulation has failed.
- Pump failure — If the pump itself has died, you won't hear anything when the pressure switch engages. This requires pulling the pump — a job for a professional with the right equipment.
What to do: Check power first. If the breaker is fine and you hear nothing from the pump, call a professional. Don't try to pull a submersible pump yourself — they're hundreds of feet down and require specialized equipment.
Air Sputtering from Faucets
If your faucets spit and sputter air before water comes out, you're likely dealing with either a failing pressure tank bladder (air is leaking into the water side) or a dropping water level in the well itself. During particularly dry stretches in Eastern Washington, water levels can temporarily dip, allowing the pump to pull air along with water.
What to do: If it happens occasionally during dry months, it may resolve on its own when the water table recovers. If it's constant, have your well's static water level checked and your pressure tank inspected.
When to Call a Professional
Some things you can check yourself — breakers, pressure gauges, aerators, visible leaks. But for anything involving the pump, the well itself, or water quality concerns, call a professional. Well systems involve electricity, pressurized water, and equipment that's hundreds of feet underground. It's not the place for guesswork.
Preventive Maintenance
The best way to avoid problems is to stay ahead of them:
- Test your water annually — bacteria and nitrates at minimum
- Inspect the wellhead — make sure the cap is secure and there's no pooling water around the casing
- Listen to your pump — changes in sound or cycling patterns are early warning signs
- Check your pressure tank — a quick pressure gauge reading once or twice a year takes two minutes
- Keep records — note your well's depth, pump size, installation dates, and any service work. When something does go wrong, this information saves time and money.